After Japan, China is the second largest market for my
brand, Johnson’s Body Care. But beyond
being currently important, China is of course a huge growth engine for every
consumer category- and body care is a big one.
For this market visit, I was lucky to be able to mix work with pleasure
and to spend the weekend with my Aunt Mary Elaine, Uncle Bob, and cousins
Margot and Beau. It’s completely wild
that I actually have 4 family members living in Shanghai while Rob and I are in
Singapore- we feel like such an international family!
My Uncle Bob was my official tour guide for the weekend and
I was very impressed at how much he knows about Shanghai after less than a
year! I hope no one has as high
expectations of what I will know about Singapore if they come to visit us! For lots of amazing info about Shanghai,
check out Bob’s blog at
http://shanghaiedbob.blogspot.com. Bob met me at the airport and we boarded the
amazing bullet train from the aiport to Shanghai- it’s called the “Maglev” for
magnetic levitation… this thing is straight out of sci-fi- it travels at about
300km per hour (it has a speedometer in every car so you can check out the
speed) and is powered by magnetic force… it literally levitates off the track
and doesn’t use wheels of any sort… what!?
Very cool… and of course China was aiming to impress and awe when they
installed this $1.2B marvel…. The odd
thing is that it really only travels from the airport to the city- so it’s
truly just meant to impress visitors.
Admittedly, I was indeed impressed although of course wondering if that
$1.2B could have been better spent.
That night we celebrated my cousin Margot’s birthday at a
non-Asian tapas dinner and I had a chance to see the beautiful Shanghai skyline
from The Bund (waterfront walkway along the Huangpu River which was across the
street from the restaurant. Shanghai
truly has a vibe much like New York to me: lots of tall building, many
different neighborhoods, dining and shopping everywhere. It is highly cosmopolitan.
On Saturday, it was
fairly rainy and cold, but we didn’t let us stop our adventures. We headed out in Old Town Shanghai and
visited the sights and smells of the traditional markets in Shanghai. Here, we saw people selling all kinds of
things- from dried animals and animal parts of every variety you can imagine,
to herbs, to beans, to fresh fruits and vegetables, to live fish, to spare
mechanical parts and used TVs. Of course
there was also plenty of street meat to be eaten… however, with the H7N9 going
around… and admittedly a less than adventurous digestive tract, I didn’t
experiment. Maybe next time- because
strangely squid on a stick didn’t look half bad J.
It was fascinating to pop into each tiny stall to see what was being sold-
almost like we were 50 years back in time.
Compared to the modern vibe of the rest of Shanghai, it was really a
strange juxtaposition.
My other big amazement after spending time with my family is
how well my cousins have assimilated into China. My cousin Beau is fluent in Mandarin and
works and lives his life pretty much speaking Chinese… and my cousin Margot was
not fluent (having only lived in China 6 months), but she was absolutely fearless with her language skills as well as
her ability to meet new friends and try new things. I was so impressed and perhaps the better
word… inspired!
After fun with the family, I headed off for my work
endeavors. Over the course of the next 5
days, I visited 15 stores in 3 cities in China- Shanghai, Shenzhen and
Guangzhou. Unlike Tokyo which felt very
different than any retail environment I’ve ever encountered, the Chinese retail
situation is much closer to the US shopping experience. There are giant “hypermarts” like Carrefour
and Walmart, as well as similar local retailers that sell anything and
everything under one roof for great prices.
There are also smaller, more specialty cosmetics and drug stores like
Watsons, which sell mainly beauty items and make the shopping experience
fun. In China, there is much more room
in the stores than in Tokyo- where there was as much inventory as possible
squished into a very tiny store. It was
interesting to see that, similar to Japan, many of the locally manufactured
brands have plenty of English on the front of the package to try to seem like
an imported brand. Additionally, many of
the local baby care brands had pictures of blond hair, blue eyed babies on the
front of the packs, while Johnson’s has pictures of Asian babies and mothers on
the front of the package. Go
figure.
In terms of other observations about China…
Everyone smokes… cigarettes are cheap, and are
everywhere. People smoke indoors… having
lived in the States and in Singapore where smoking is pretty taboo (and costly!) nowadays-
this was a rude awakening!
Yep, there are really are a helluva lot of people living in
China. Everywhere is pretty crowded,
even at 10am on Thursday, the stores
were crowded. We took a train from Shenzhen
to Guangzhou. The train leaves every 10
minutes and it’s about an hour ride… and it was crowded. Crazy crowded.
There is censorship… you can’t access Facebook or YouTube without
a VPN, and certain Google searches were blocked. I could access Facebook on my phone, but every
time I tried to post something, it wouldn’t let me. Very big brother. I also read the English language Chinese
newspaper when I was there to see what the news slant would be. It was a bit one-sided, especially over the
Japan/China disputed islands, but my larger impression was that there just
wasn’t much news.
Lines are not orderly.
I waited in many lines while in China, but the mantra seems to be “every
man for yourself!” While waiting in a
100+ person taxi line in Shenzhen (not exaggerating a bit), people were
blatantly charging past me as if I was not waiting in line- including 80 year
old men. But strangely, people just seem
to accept it without getting pissed. In
the US, there would have been a fight for sure, but in China, people just seem
to accept that if you are in such a hurry and feel like fighting past everyone
else, you somehow deserve to go first.
I’m not gonna lie, this really annoyed the hell out of me!! But I can
certainly understand why this is the case given the cultural and historical
dynamics in China where it really is survival of the fittest and there is
scarcity. (BTW- in Singapore, this is
the opposite- I have never seen a more orderly, line-centric place than
Singapore).
Food was not for me.
I had some good Chinese food, yes, especially soup dumplings (soup
inside the dumpling!), noodles, tofu and rice…but overall it was a bit of a
struggle. Between the odd smell of
certain Chinese food, the tendency to literally eat every part of the animal
(bones, fat, tendons and all), the fact that my go-to meat, chicken, was off
limits due to bird flu, and the oddly unidentifiable meats that were on my
plate…I really didn’t truly enjoy the cuisine very much. In fact, I found myself ordering more western
food than I would normally even eat in Singapore.
China is really a very modern place. I think there are perceptions that all of
China is stuck in the 50 year time warp- but that is just not the case. The cities are thriving with industry, pop
culture, and global brands. While there
is still a strong heritage that shows up
in pockets like Old Town Shanghai and certain parts of every city, it really is
a modern and in the case of Shanghai in particular, cosmopolitan place.
My experience was very focused on the Chinese shopping environment (imagine
going to the US and only visiting Walmarts and CVS stores…) that I really
didn’t have an opportunity to experience some of the most amazing parts of
China and Chinese culture- but I did learn about Chinese shoppers (on the plus
side!). I will return to China again,
and when I do, I hope to see more of it, and to experience more of the cultural
sights.
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Cousins united in Asia! Margot, Beau and me at Margot's birthday dinner |
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A pic on The Bund- Aunt Mary Elaine, Beau, me, Margot and two friends of Mary Elaine & Bob's who were visiting. |
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View from The Bund- Shanghai |
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Amazing view of Huangpu river from ME and Bob's apartment! |
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Old Town shopping- beans |
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Miscellaneous chicken parts... |
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Eggs! And more Eggs! |
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Urban Development Museum- very cool reconstruction of Shanghai- I'm now super excited to visit a similar exhibit in Sinagpore! |
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Example of hilarious English translation- there are plenty in China... this is at the Urban Dev Museum depicting a future Shanghai... the dog is apparently saying "Besides, there should be many trees here. As a result, I will hide all delicious food under the tree." |
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The J&J Shanghai Office... and my business partners. |
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lunch- with unidentifiable meat product in upper right. |
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yum, delicious candy! Nope... it's dried beef disguised as yummy candy... this is plentiful in China! I was duped once... think very dry beef jerky |
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Pork hock stew... we cooked it at our table. I didn't enjoy the pork part, but the rest of the stew was actually quite good. I just can't stomach eating pure animal fat! |
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Shopping in China... Very much like Walmart in the US |
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My brand! Johnson's Body Care |
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Spent a lot of time looking at shelves like this one... a lot of time. Oh my. |
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Sight for sore eyes! So happy to be home after 7 days away. |
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Authentic Chinese Panda Bears :) |